UPDATED SEPT 23
We rolled into Lephalale and were headed for a guest house but did
not know which one, when we saw Ocean Breeze restaurant at the Palm
Park Hotel. The Palm Park Hotel is a three star hotel, very nice,
not what we were looking for, but after a week of fine French gourmet
food, we wanted some fried, unhealthy, fish. We had dined at a Ocean
Breeze before, and though it is a chain, it met what we wanted. So,
we did a U-turn, and checked in.
Sept 10
Khama Rhino Sanctuary
At Stevensford when we drove the 8km road out all the animals came out to see us though they had all run to hide when we were looking for. Zebras, Giraffe, Elan, all of them. As we were loading the truck to leave after two nights in the Khama a large black rhino came walking through. As he passed our chalet we marked his territory and moseyed his way to the swimming pool for a drink. Unfortunately it was covered and he moved on. We shared the experience with our neighbors a family of four. The picture would have been of them coming out to see the rhino. They just came out of the Kalahari Desert camping for a month were they had seen lots of everything, but were still super excited to see the rhino so close.
Maun
We hit the road for Maun. Miss Daisy drove most of it as I was little under the weather from the meal last night. We rolled into to town and headed for the Sedia Hotel. Asked the rate and they said 850 P or $85. I said that was nice but what could I really get the room for and she immediately said 550 P or $55. You always have to ask.
Maun is the fifth largest town in Botswana. As of 2011, it had a population of 55,784. Maun is the "tourism capital" of Botswana and the administrative centre of Ngamiland district. It is also the headquarters of numerous safari and air-charter operations who run trips into the Okavango Delta. Although officially still a village, Maun has developed rapidly from a rural frontier town and has spread along the Thamalakane River. It now has shopping centres, hotels and lodges as well as car hire, although it retains a rural atmosphere and local tribesmen continue to bring their cattle to Maun to sell. The community is distributed along the wide banks of the Thamalakane River where red lechwe can still be seen grazing next to local donkeys, goats and cattle
I was supposed to have the day off, but got bored and went for a walk where I visited the welding shop above. Nice guys. they were building a step for the rear of the truck. Then we went into town and went shopping. I am now ready for the Okvango Delta and beyond. I got my shovel, my fix a flat, my planks and not showing my air compressor. Like a boy scoot, I hope I am prepared for the
all adventures.
Sep 14
In Casablanca people are waiting, and waiting, and waiting......” As we are in Maun. As I failed to book ahead, our desired next lodging is not available until Wednesday, so here we set waiting. The Okavango Delta is divided into private concessions. These are the places that cost $500 to $3000 per person per day and I ain't paying. The area open to the rest of the mortals is the Moremi and we going there, though our lodging is just out side of the park, but at $340 a night it is the cheapest around. Maun sets on the edge of the Okavango Delta and invokes all the images of a border town. Hot, dusty, lots of small supply stores run by people who's ethnic background is probably Indian or from that region. There are backpacker places and overpriced places. The main roads are paved but the rest are sand. The small airport, that has maybe 6 commercial flights a day, mostly commuter type aircraft, and private planes back and forth to the delta is building a tower that would make JFK airport proud built by the Chinese.
The Okavango Delta in Botswana is a very large inland delta formed where the Okavango River reaches a tectonic trough in the central part of the endorheic basin of the Kalahari. All the water reaching the Delta is ultimately evaporated and transpired, and does not flow into any sea or ocean. Each year approximately 11 cubic kilometers of water spreads over the 6,000-15,000 km² area. Some flood-waters drain into Lake Ngami. The Moremi Game Reserve, a National Park, is on the eastern side of the Delta. The scale and magnificence of the Okavango Delta helped it secure a position as one of the Seven Natural Wonders of Africa, which were officially declared on February 11, 2013 in Arusha, Tanzania. On 22 June 2014, the Okavango Delta became the 1000th site to be officially inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
To Africa
Air France Flight
to Johannesburg began boarding right on time. The are three class's
of services. One called Sky Priority, this is us and it gets you a
lot of privileges at check-in, custom’s and security. And those
people that ride in the trunk. For boarding here in Paris on the
double decker Airbus 380 Sky Priority is broken into three classes,
First, Business, and Premium Economy with little roped areas for
each. When we bordered we caught the escalator to the upper level and
walked right on. Air Frances' promises about Premium economy are met
much better on this plane. The seat was excellent, except the
cushion, there was plenty of storage space, and the two promised
bottles of water were there. The staff was extremely attentive and
passed through the cabin several times offering assistance, even a
round of offering water. The Chief Pursuer came through and
introduced himself. All this and still at the gate. This was what I
was promised in the ad's. But alas, not all was well. The Captain
announced a delay in loading baggage which, in Paris, is a separate
concession from the airline. Just about a hour into the delay the
Captain announced that the baggage was not coming, but we were
leaving. This did not set well with our fellow travelers but the
staff handled it very well.
In flight the
attendants still continued to be very attentive and though I did not
have the meal, Vicki reported it to be good. I am sure the champagne
and the cognac helped in that decision. On the ground we all stood
and wishfully watched the baggage conveyor belt go round and round
hoping to be one of the luck 30% who's bags made it on the plane.
Alas, we were not lucky, so off we went to stand in line.
To be honest the
procedure was not to painful. From there we hit the ATM got a taxi
and headed for Michael's house only to once again get stuck in
traffic due to construction. Luck is not running with us on this
trip. The critical problem with no luggage other than body odor, is
it is about 52 degrees and we have no warm clothes. Ann the house
keeper very kindly got us a portable gas heater and Vic buried, under
blankets, is warming up. Ann also brought us tea to warm us up.
Michael came home
from his office around 4, he broke out a fine bottle of Brunello from
his cellar, and we had a toast to reunion. We did something very
unusual for Johannesburg, we walk to the restaurant.
Crime is a problem
here, but hiding in a car is not what Michael does. He lives a free
life and goes places most white people dare not go and has a great
time and meets wonderful people. He only has great things to say
about his people and the people he met when rode his scooter alone
from South Africa to France. Today was the day he left a family in
Ethiopia last year and they emailed him a picture of the going away
coffee ceremony they had for him. It is amazing what his open
attitude has done for his life.
Anyway, we walked
to dinner at a great restaurant, had a wonderful meal, more wine and
walked home back to a night cap of wine.
Sept 5
This morning we
slept in some. Several calls to the airport handler of lost luggage
led us to a decision that I would go to the airport to do a face to
face to get the bag before they threw it on a truck with one hundred
and fifty other bags to be delivered in Johannesburg and Vicki and
Michael would go shopping for lunch and dinner food. The man only
keeps vitamins and healthy stuff in the house and lots of wine.
Michael arranged a
Uber ride for me to the airport. I have been sitting on the fence
about whether I thought Uber was a good thing or not. I have
insurance concerns and concerns for those who have invested in taxi
companies. I know this shocks many of you, that I, being a communist,
do not immediately side with the workers. But don't forget, I am
setting Africa because I was a very successful capitalist. Just not
a greedy bastard like many. Anyway, I am now a believer in Uber. The
whole thing is so transparent. It is less expensive than the cab we
took yesterday, but the technology of it is what sold me.
At the airport I
got the usual shaking of heads, and no's, but I like to think I
charmed them with my good looks when it was in fact Mary who took
pity on me because I reminded her of her grandfather. I mention for
context I was just white. She took me downstairs where she
disappeared into the hinterlands and came back smiling with my
grandfatherly luggage. I thanked her and was on my way.
Back in the Uber
vehicle with Thabang we speed off home for lunch. Thabang is a very
interesting man. Coming from a three room house in Sawato, were
several families lived with a total of twelve children alone and
where he still lives, he managed to raise himself above the rest.
Trained as a actor and mainly a dancer he traveled the world with a
national dance troop until he hurt his leg.
When internet
permits I will load a video of his life statement here.
Thabang's
story is coming
I came home about one to a grand spread. In memory of Parma, Italy,
where we first met, there were two parma hams, fine salami's,
excellent cheese's, salad, fresh baked bread and of course, a fine
Brunello. It was a grand afternoon of three or four excellent wines
and great conversation. Before we knew it, it was five in the
afternoon. I can not remember that last time I had such a great
lunch. Since no one was really interested in dinner, we opened
another bottle of wine and carried on. Michael is such a intense and
passionate person about his life, especially about his Africa. It is
rare and I consider a great pleasure to meet a person with such
passion. We discussed travels past and future, politics a little, and
general life wishes. It is wonderful to share experiences. Most of
what we discussed others would be polite to but not really
understand. You had to be there and though we had mutual scooter
experiences, he had more extreme than I on a scooter, but I had
similar events in life. The frustration of going to every gas station
in Aswan looking for 3 gallons of gas and being turned back at each
one, no matter what you offered and only wanting gas and getting out
of the place in 100 degree plus heat I have done in other places.
There were many frustrations that push you to the edge of panic or
murder or situations you just want to end but there is no out but
play it through or die. In one incident, he was pushed to such
extreme with heat, fatigue and frustration that he lost every bit of
his decorum in a hotel lobby and let them all “hold it” as we
would say. To his immense credit, he came back downstairs, asked the
manger to call everyone together that he had interacted with. He
could see the fear in the faces, which rapidly changed when he
apologized and begged their forgiveness. Who would do that? Not many of us. After
that they could not do enough for him and he, in fact, extended his
stay.
When he came home he actually suffered a form of PTSD after his six
month trip and for a month did not go out of his house. Adventure is
like a drug and you just seek more. I have done this much of my life
though they are much milder now than in the years past. Michael is now
planning a trip up western Africa. This one is serious. There are
many more challenges that could be life or death on this route from
guns to disease. Not that the eastern route did not have some of the
same.
Day 3
Sunday we parted ways. Uber took us to the airport to get our trusty
truck and Victoria took Michael to Pretoria to a new Porsche garage
grand opening.
Thrifty rental at the airport was fun. Latati just kept giggling and
laughing and the whole crew joined in to prepare out paper work. We
needed contracts, cross border permits, etc., etc.. We had to do
two contracts since we were keeping the truck for so long. One for
the first thirty days and one for the next twenty three and dividing
the charge to meet my contract price, what with tax, airport fee's,
garage fee's, etc. was a challenge. It took time but it was fun. We
got a complete checkout on the vehicle from lights to spare and
tools. Last thing you want is to be in backass Botswana with a flat
tire and find out the lug wrench is for a '44 Ford. We did encounter
one problem. Michael had insisted that we forsake Botswana and visit
Zambia. Several guide books had recommended this if you were
concerned about the high prices of Botswana. We were concerned and with Michael
s descriptions we decided we would transit Botswana slowly but mainly
head to Zambia. However, Thrifty would only let us take the car across the border to Livingston and no further, so that idea quickly died.
Leaving the airport was easy and quickly we were on the expressway.
North of Pretoria, where we would be out of the city, we moved to the
old parallel road Route 101. Long straight roads with agriculture
fields on both sides. When we turned left on R33 and now each side of
the road had tall fences and were mostly game farms. We climbed over
a small mountain range and down the other side.
not the garlic toast we expected but good
dinner for two and we left some
the kitchen staff
our waiter
Day 5
We had a slow
start today. A long casual breakfast with more offerings than you
could count. Fortunately I restrained myself. We shopped at the Pic
and Pay for stables and booze and headed for Botswana. . Now that we
were “cruising” I drove at 90 kmh even thought the speed limit
was 120. Since we seemed to be the only vehicle on the road this posed no problem We crossed out of South Africa at Gobblers Bridge. You pull into a check point
and a guard at a gate gives you a piece of paper. There are no
instructions and you just wing it. You go around all the trucks,
following the car in front, and it pulls into a parking space in
front of a building. You get your documentation and follow him to
the building and get in line that runs along the outside of the building with teller like windows. Fairly quickly you hand your passport
over to a official behind the glass, they do not care about all
the paperwork for your car, they stamp your passport and the little piece of paper the
guy at the gate gave you and you leave. Back in you care you pull up
to another check point and hand that gentleman the piece of paper and
proceed on your way out of South Africa.
We cross the one
lane bridge and pull into another fenced in area, bypassing the
trucks. We get our paperwork and go into a more modern building. We
stand in line. When our turn comes, a gentleman behind the glass
processes our paperwork, hands us some paperwork to fill out, stamps
our passport and we move to the cashier. Here we learn we have to
pay for what later we find out is a road permit. They take Visa but
the machine is not working and otherwise only take Paula the local
currency of Botswana. Rand, dollars, and euro's won't work. I leave
Vicki in line and I walk across the parking lot, exit the fence and
go to a shipping container that is a “bureau the exchange” were I
change Rand for Paula and head back for the line which has not moved
since I left. We pass the time talking to South Africans who come
here all the time as technicians but have no idea what exactly what
we are paying for. We get to the front of the line pay up and and
discover it is a road permit. We are off but first we have to give a
piece of paper to the guy at the exit gate.
the one lane bridge
follow that guy to the next checkpoint
Stevensford Game Reserve
About ten
kilometers down the road we turn off the tarmac and head east on a
dirt road for thirteen kilometers where we come to the main gate of
the Stevensford Game Ranch. "Stevensford is a 3500 hector private nature conservancy situated on the Limpopo River in Botswana’s Tuli Block. The Reserve, which is also a working game farm, is home to many species, including giraffe, zebra, eland, gemsbok, waterbuck, kudu, blue wildebeest, bushbuck, red hartebeest, impala, steenbok, duiker, aardwolf, aardvark, brown hyena, warthog, crocodile and hippopotamus. There have been rare sightings of cheetah, leopard, bat-eared foxes and bushpig. Birdlife is abundant and diverse, and includes megatick opportunities such as the Pels Fishing Owl and the secretive African Finfoot."
It is eight kilometers to the reception and this is just one half of the ranch. On the way in we have the pleasure to meet Linda and Neal the owners. They are going back to their home in Gaborone. They have been here this weekend for a giraffe round up. Their neighbor “down the road”, here that could be a couple of hundred kilometers, had bought three females and a bull for her husband for his birthday. Continuing to the reception we come across a big bull giraffe. Here, unlike all the national parks, we can get out if we wish but he lopes away.
It is eight kilometers to the reception and this is just one half of the ranch. On the way in we have the pleasure to meet Linda and Neal the owners. They are going back to their home in Gaborone. They have been here this weekend for a giraffe round up. Their neighbor “down the road”, here that could be a couple of hundred kilometers, had bought three females and a bull for her husband for his birthday. Continuing to the reception we come across a big bull giraffe. Here, unlike all the national parks, we can get out if we wish but he lopes away.
Linda and Neal owners of the ranch
Marisa meets us
and settles into our chalet, the Treefrog, and we are off to spot animals.
Setting on the front porch early I saw
Hornbills setting on the truck window on the drivers side. I thought
that to be interesting until I had a flashback to years ago when I
saw clip of birds pulling the rubber out of the windows on a car.
Sure enough the little bastards were trying to be video stars. I had
to stand guard for the next hour or so until they moved on.
We have seen giraffe, zebras, the
recorded largest eland, wildebeests, and lots of bac in the bush here. No
pictures as these guys are skittish and bolt when they see you. That is probably because, unlike the parks, they are not used to seeing people and the fact that they had just had the giraffe roundup. In
the camp we have had a family of warthogs and baboons stroll through.
Our 4 days, 3 nights at Stevensford
Game Reserve were just what we needed. We did long walks through the
bush, laid around and read and did nothing, had a “romantic dinner
for two” overlooking the water and were going to have bush BBQ but
canceled out on that one and had a lovely meal in the chalet. Ranch
manager Wessel and Marisa and their staff are wonderful hosts. In the
morning Buti or Tsephang would come early and build me a fire to
drink my coffee and read by. Rebecca and Kel would come a clean the
dishes from the meal the night before or anything outside in the
kitchen. This all happened at or before 7 which was great for me, but
made Vicki roll over. We had three great dinners prepared by Marisa,
one just at our chalet, one romantic one overlooking the water with a
fire, and we were supposed to do a bush BBQ but Vicki was not going
to eat and it is usually for a minimum of four anyway, so we
canceled. However, when we came back from our evening bush drive with
Edward they had set us a table under the stars lite by lanterns. If
your track ever takes you this way, stop in. They are great people.
Vicki with the very rare Ranger
I know we left the damn truck around here somewhere
the large and dangerous velvet mite
a glimpse of the rare Nissan son of Bob
rolling down the interstate
The romantic dinner on the water. They put lanterns out on the path for us find our way
the rare American elephant
My morning coffee buddies
entering the other half of the reserve
This is what they set up for us instead of the bush bbq
Sept 10
Khama Rhino Sanctuary
We said our goodbyes and hit the road
for Khama Rhino Sanctuary. A three hour drive turned into 5 and we
rolled in by mid-afternoon. "The Khama Rhino Sanctuary (KRS) is a community based wildlife project, established in 1992 to assist in saving the vanishing rhinoceros, restore an area formerly teeming with wildlife to its previous natural state and provide economic benefits to the local Botswana community through tourism and the sustainable use of natural resources.
Covering approximately, 8585 hectares of Kalahari Sandveld, the sanctuary provides prime habitat for white and black rhino as well as over 30 other animal species and more than 230 species of birds."
We got a chalet for four, as that was all that was available, and had to pay for four. It came to $100 a night. We spent two nights and had some great animal sightings. I have a video I will post of us in a blind next to the water hole. A black rhino came and put on a great show. He did a mud wallow and then came up and rubbed his face on the blind making it rock and role a little bit. Vicki was thrilled.
Covering approximately, 8585 hectares of Kalahari Sandveld, the sanctuary provides prime habitat for white and black rhino as well as over 30 other animal species and more than 230 species of birds."
We got a chalet for four, as that was all that was available, and had to pay for four. It came to $100 a night. We spent two nights and had some great animal sightings. I have a video I will post of us in a blind next to the water hole. A black rhino came and put on a great show. He did a mud wallow and then came up and rubbed his face on the blind making it rock and role a little bit. Vicki was thrilled.
exiting stevensford
we had roads like this......
....and this with lots and lots of goats
a fine dinner of spam. when is the last time you saw a key on a can?
What we saw today.......
Sept 12At Stevensford when we drove the 8km road out all the animals came out to see us though they had all run to hide when we were looking for. Zebras, Giraffe, Elan, all of them. As we were loading the truck to leave after two nights in the Khama a large black rhino came walking through. As he passed our chalet we marked his territory and moseyed his way to the swimming pool for a drink. Unfortunately it was covered and he moved on. We shared the experience with our neighbors a family of four. The picture would have been of them coming out to see the rhino. They just came out of the Kalahari Desert camping for a month were they had seen lots of everything, but were still super excited to see the rhino so close.
can you see him?
how about now?
Why do people in uniforms and guns always show up when I travel? And the big guns where in the truck.
after seeing the kitchen I should have known better than to try a second meal.
As slow and lumbering as they are they are very dangerous. One of the park directors here was killed by one.
Maun
We hit the road for Maun. Miss Daisy drove most of it as I was little under the weather from the meal last night. We rolled into to town and headed for the Sedia Hotel. Asked the rate and they said 850 P or $85. I said that was nice but what could I really get the room for and she immediately said 550 P or $55. You always have to ask.
Maun is the fifth largest town in Botswana. As of 2011, it had a population of 55,784. Maun is the "tourism capital" of Botswana and the administrative centre of Ngamiland district. It is also the headquarters of numerous safari and air-charter operations who run trips into the Okavango Delta. Although officially still a village, Maun has developed rapidly from a rural frontier town and has spread along the Thamalakane River. It now has shopping centres, hotels and lodges as well as car hire, although it retains a rural atmosphere and local tribesmen continue to bring their cattle to Maun to sell. The community is distributed along the wide banks of the Thamalakane River where red lechwe can still be seen grazing next to local donkeys, goats and cattle
when we turned for Maun we saw almost no traffic
Miss Daisy driving me. She has both hands on the wheel because if you do not Son of Bob will buck you off the road.
this my friends is the great Kalahari desert
residents of the north Kalahari. the visibility was much worse than the picture from blowing dust
Sedia hotel
doing your own underwear as they will not do it here due to tribal beliefs and I belief with them
like most of botswana a little worn around the edges but clean and friendly
someone requested a selfie with the giraffe
the local welding shop. they are looking for a partner.
I was supposed to have the day off, but got bored and went for a walk where I visited the welding shop above. Nice guys. they were building a step for the rear of the truck. Then we went into town and went shopping. I am now ready for the Okvango Delta and beyond. I got my shovel, my fix a flat, my planks and not showing my air compressor. Like a boy scoot, I hope I am prepared for the
all adventures.
Sep 14
In Casablanca people are waiting, and waiting, and waiting......” As we are in Maun. As I failed to book ahead, our desired next lodging is not available until Wednesday, so here we set waiting. The Okavango Delta is divided into private concessions. These are the places that cost $500 to $3000 per person per day and I ain't paying. The area open to the rest of the mortals is the Moremi and we going there, though our lodging is just out side of the park, but at $340 a night it is the cheapest around. Maun sets on the edge of the Okavango Delta and invokes all the images of a border town. Hot, dusty, lots of small supply stores run by people who's ethnic background is probably Indian or from that region. There are backpacker places and overpriced places. The main roads are paved but the rest are sand. The small airport, that has maybe 6 commercial flights a day, mostly commuter type aircraft, and private planes back and forth to the delta is building a tower that would make JFK airport proud built by the Chinese.
The Okavango Delta in Botswana is a very large inland delta formed where the Okavango River reaches a tectonic trough in the central part of the endorheic basin of the Kalahari. All the water reaching the Delta is ultimately evaporated and transpired, and does not flow into any sea or ocean. Each year approximately 11 cubic kilometers of water spreads over the 6,000-15,000 km² area. Some flood-waters drain into Lake Ngami. The Moremi Game Reserve, a National Park, is on the eastern side of the Delta. The scale and magnificence of the Okavango Delta helped it secure a position as one of the Seven Natural Wonders of Africa, which were officially declared on February 11, 2013 in Arusha, Tanzania. On 22 June 2014, the Okavango Delta became the 1000th site to be officially inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
A typical city house on a much larger plot than normal. Behind the car is the kitchen with a open flame fire.
the dancing cousins
a two seater outhouse with satellite tv
a road block that went from this.....
...to this.....
....to this.
the new control tower at the airport
tire shop
hair solon
So
while we are waiting I would like to introduce you to the
Vlogbrothers, Hank and John Green. John is the second highest
grossing author in America, but most of you have not heard of him. We
are not his target audience. But they Vlog each other every week.
One on Tuesday and one on Friday. They have some very enlighting
conversations. So, since these seem relevant to my travels I will
share these two.
SEPT 15
Being
basically lazy, waiting does not bother me but I was afraid of losing
my 5 star TripAdvisor Guide rating so I went off to find some
exciting things to do. First to the airport and booked a scenic
flight over the Okavango Delta, then I found a place to walk a little
on the river. While we were walking on the river at the old bridge, I
saw river boats parked in front of the Old Bridge Backbackers so we
walked over to esquire. They had a trip going tomorrow for six so we
signed on. That took care of tomorrow as it left and 8 and returned
at 5. Now I had to fill in some more time so why not shopping.
The
shopping area in downtown Maun is a series of strip malls and a KFC.
We went to the large one, about a block or two in area with numerous
shops in a almost closed U shape with parking in the middle. Parking
was a small challenge as it was full and even maneuvering a small
truck was tight but I pulled it off. It looked like the rest of town,
dusty, dirty, trash blowing around, a few sidewalk vendors. The shops
were mainly clothing shops with a couple of cellphone shops and a
Spar grocery. Vicki was in search of a cover up for the boat trip or
a excuse to shop, not sure which. She is not a big shopper but when
she does it is painful for me as she is not a lady to make snap
decisions. Hell, she dated me for years before making up her mind and
asked me to marry her. A search of all the shops did not bring
anything in her price range...under $10, so we headed for the
grocery. This was no fun either but we were just after water so it
went quick. It was small and in disarray with lots of shoppers. It
was about the size of Trader Joes but in no way brought to mind
Trader Joe's. We grabbed the water and road around town a little and
headed for a siesta before the scenic plane ride.
Back
at the airport we met our flying partners another retired couple from
South Africa. He had been in banking but like me got tired of work
and left early. Our captain for today is Olly who looks a lot like Tiger Woods. We had to go through security where they took Vicki's
water and the other passengers small, and I mean real small scissors
away. Our handler took them and gave them back on the other side of
security. A quick brief by our pilot and we were in the air over the
Okavango Delta. It gives you the big picture of the Delta at 800 feet. We saw elephants, giraffes, zebras, etc..
That
done, we went to dinner at Airport Pizza and Curry shop across the
dirt street from the terminal. Excellent choice. However, as you age
brain cells die off and you have to relearn what was stored in them.
The very attentive and nice waiter came from the kitchen after we
ordered and informed me it would take awhile to for the beef curry,
but Vicki's chicken would be out shortly. In the dead brain cells I
had stored that part that had learned when a waiter tells you
something like this it is a polite way of saying, “order something
else dude”. But no, those cells were dead and I said “how long?”
and he said “about 20 minutes”. Well, close to a hour later out
came the beef curry. Also stored on the edge of those dead cells was
the part about sharing, but that came back quickly when Vicki's came
out and was more than enough for the two of us. So, by the time the
beef got there I did not need it after all.
Walking the old bridge
I am not a selfie guy at all, but more and more it is requested by the young
On my morning drive I passed this couple walking on the side of the road in the bush. When I came back by they were still walking and i picked them up. They were headed for the local clinic about a five mile walk. Notice how the dressed. The best they have to go here.....
they were extremely grateful
EVERY commercial building has one of these?
Capt Olly and crew flight planning
safety briefing
Capt Olly in deep concentration as he lifts the big plane in the air
One
thing I have learned over the years of boating and traveling and
working in far off places, you want to see YAMAHA written in big
letters on the engine. That was not there. It said Mercury and I
new that was a bad omen. We met our fellow travelers, a couple from
South Africa who's daughter just graduated from Franics Marion
College in South Carolina and son was teaching tennis up and down the
east coast of the U.S. The other couple were newly weds from
Pittsburgh but she was from New Orleans and had had the wedding there
at Brossards, one of the most famous and oldest restaurants in the
city. Her brother is a musician so they had the parade and music all
night. I wish I had been there.
With
KK the guide/captain we are off on a African Queen experience (my
description). And sure enough, it was not long before KK was calling
for a backup boat. The Mercury had crapped out. Henry showed up with
a replacement quickly and we transferred all the gear and were on our
way. On our return journey we encountered another tourist boat with a
Mercury engine, almost new looking, and it too was crapped out and
waiting for a tow. The day went quickly, spotting lots of birds,
elephants, zebras, more of those damn boc and giraffes. It had
adventure also. We took a side channel were we encountered local
bush man fishing nets strung across the channel. This took a group
effort to maneuver, trying to go over, which we did with difficulty,
to just passing the net over the top of the boat which worked much
better. Lunch was on Chief's Island. The temperatures were mild for
here, in the upper 80's which made for a pleasant experience.
captain KK
Henry brings us the YAMAHA to replace the Mercury
checking in before we enter the concession
African
just like the African Queen our boat floated away
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sept
16 Maun to Moremi
" It rests on the eastern side of the Okavango Delta and was named after Chief Moremi of the BaTawana tribe. Moremi was designated as a Game Reserve, and not a National Park, when it was created. This designation meant local people, the BaSarwa or Bushmen that lived there were allowed to stay in the reserve. The Moremi Game Reserve covers much of the eastern side of the Okavango Delta and combines permanent water with drier areas, which create some startling and unexpected contrasts. Some prominent geographical features of the Reserve are Chiefs Island and the Moremi Tongue. In the Moremi Reserve one can experience excellent views of Savannah game as well as bird-watching on the lagoons. There are also thickly wooded areas, which are home to the rare African wild dog and leopard. To the northeast lies the Chobe National Park which borders the Moremi Game Reserve.
Although just under 5,000 square kilometres (1,900 sq mi) in extent, it is a surprisingly diverse Reserve, combining mopane woodland and acacia forests, floodplains and lagoons. Only about 30% of the Reserve is mainland, with the bulk being within the Okavango Delta itself.
The Moremi Game Reserve, although not one of the largest parks, presents insights and views even for the most experienced of travelers. It is home to nearly 500 species of bird (from water birds to forest dwellers), and a vast array of other species of wildlife, including buffalo, giraffe, lion, leopard, cheetah, hyaena, jackal, impala, and red lechwe. African wild dog, Lycaon pictus, is resident[2] and has been the subject of a project run in the area since 1989; thus this species is often seen wearing collars emplaced by researchers. The Moremi area contains one of the most significant extant habitat areas for L.yacon pitus"
" It rests on the eastern side of the Okavango Delta and was named after Chief Moremi of the BaTawana tribe. Moremi was designated as a Game Reserve, and not a National Park, when it was created. This designation meant local people, the BaSarwa or Bushmen that lived there were allowed to stay in the reserve. The Moremi Game Reserve covers much of the eastern side of the Okavango Delta and combines permanent water with drier areas, which create some startling and unexpected contrasts. Some prominent geographical features of the Reserve are Chiefs Island and the Moremi Tongue. In the Moremi Reserve one can experience excellent views of Savannah game as well as bird-watching on the lagoons. There are also thickly wooded areas, which are home to the rare African wild dog and leopard. To the northeast lies the Chobe National Park which borders the Moremi Game Reserve.
Although just under 5,000 square kilometres (1,900 sq mi) in extent, it is a surprisingly diverse Reserve, combining mopane woodland and acacia forests, floodplains and lagoons. Only about 30% of the Reserve is mainland, with the bulk being within the Okavango Delta itself.
The Moremi Game Reserve, although not one of the largest parks, presents insights and views even for the most experienced of travelers. It is home to nearly 500 species of bird (from water birds to forest dwellers), and a vast array of other species of wildlife, including buffalo, giraffe, lion, leopard, cheetah, hyaena, jackal, impala, and red lechwe. African wild dog, Lycaon pictus, is resident[2] and has been the subject of a project run in the area since 1989; thus this species is often seen wearing collars emplaced by researchers. The Moremi area contains one of the most significant extant habitat areas for L.yacon pitus"
The
waiting is over and we are off to Moremi Game Reserve. The first 20
km are on a nice smooth road. The next 6 hours were butt shaking. It
started on a washboard, often sand pit road. The shock our teeth
traveling at a whopping 50 kmh. Next was rolling road. Not small
little hills in the road, but deep vallies about 3 to 4 feet deep in
about a 10 foot span. After three hours we arrived at the gate.
Taking care of entry requirements and payment was easy and the staff
was friendly. We put our info in three different books and they
filled out our entry permit in a book with 4 copies. I did not even know they still made carbon paper. That done and
the $87 for three day pass paid, we were in the park and on our way
to see wild game. The first road was bad, the second road was worse
and not a damn animal in sight. In two hours we encountered 2
squirrels and 5 birds. We finally came upon some elephant and made
our way down to the river. Thankfully things got much better. Birds
starting to appear and more and more bac, elan, elephants, lots of
birds and hippo's.
After
5 hours of getting beat by the road, trying to get stuck in the sand,
thank goodness for 4 wheel low range, we decided to head for the
house. We had to stop and put our details in the book as we left the
park and a few km's down the road we came to the Khawi Guest House.
There are six chalets, a main gathering eating area and the staff
quarters. Just opened in July it is clean and neat. The manger/guide
is Dasho, a handsome young man, but things did not flow from him.
Friendly and nice but you had to drag info out of him, like “where
is the room”. We settled in and had a nice dinner.
signing the many sign in books
elephants wreck havoc on the forest. they push trees over to get the few leaves at the top
yep, at 340 a
We
where up early, early for Vicki that is, to enter the park while it
was cool and the animals would still be moving. Dash had given me a
tour of the guest house facility. It is mainly solar powered but
they do you the generator during the evening meal hour. He showed me
the whole solar and little noisy generator set up. The whole time we
were talking and I realized that he was not comfortable in the
manager roll but when we talked about guiding he was a different
person. Over breakfast, I discussed with Vicki about using him for
the day. Unlike most places he charges $45 person not a minimum for
the vehicle. I was all over this. Not only were we going to get
excellent guide info, I was not going to have to drive Miss Daisy all
over the damn place and worry about getting stuck in the sand. This
paid off handsomely right off the bat. “What do you want to see?”
he asked. “Lions” we responded. Lions are elusive and you are
lucky to spot them. We were not even in the park, just crossing the
bridge, and he said “look, lions”. Well, guess we can go home
now. The $85 price had just paid off as Dash knew the route they
were taking. He was able to postpone park entry formalities to speed
off to catch the lions, something we would not have been able to do.
As he knew their track we were able to see them several times. They
would cross in front of us and we would speed off to the next road
they would cross. When they no longer appeared we went in search of
other life. A elephant had died 6 days ago and the lions had eat off
it for days and when they were done the heneas and the croc's worked
on it. Dash had been to the spot yesterday and the elephant carcass
was still there, but when we arrived, much to his amazement it was
gone. There are a couple of bones in the Khwai river and a couple
spread out into the marsh, but that was it. He was amazed, as we were
disappointed, that it was all gone, bone and all.
Back
at camp Vicki set Chi Vicki cafe and we took a rest before the
afternoon adventure. While waiting I went to Vicki's Open Air and
Free Salon. Fortunately she was not very experienced with equipment
and instead of getting a cut with a #3 setting, I got a cut with a #1
setting, that one I have always wanted but she said is to short.
In the
afternoon we went into NG-19 concession. All the game land outside
the parks is leased out into private concessions and these areas are
further cut into some private lodge areas. We were going to look for
a Leopard and it's cub. The cub was easy to find by the three game
vehicles parked around it but hard to see. The mother has been
hunting for days. She killed a impala but the hienas took it away
from her. The guides are all very worried about the family. From
there we went looking for the mother and there were four game
vehicles crisscrossing the area looking. Then the word went out that
the African wild dogs, a endangered species, where on the hunt.
Then it looked like a NASCAR event. There were at one time as many as
ten vehicles following these dogs. Surging up to catch them,
stopping for awhile and then racing off again. By dark the only
action was watching all the vehicles and it had dwindled down to us,
as they were headed our way, and vehicle of research people.
Nice
dinner with conversations next to the fire with Dash and manager from
the big office and off to bed.
Here
is where I tell you once again how stupid I am. In the concession
you are allowed to get out of your vehicle with a guide. Dash and I
were standing outside the vehicle watching a bull elephant as it
walked by the vehicle. It came within 6 feet of us and slowly passed
by. I thought I was capturing this magic moment on video, but much to
my disappoint I had pushed the wrong button....again
see the lions?
just to the left of the trees in the middle. Are you kidding me?
see the four of them now? Four?
Dash was very proud of himself
lions?
bee catchers
can you see the elephant
we saw lots of hippos
it starts getting crowd
the leopard cub
let the races begin
the target of chase
watching the show
Day 3
Moremi to Maun
I was
having my morning coffee when a little after 7 a very rare animal
came walking across the compound. It was The Princess, wide awake
and ready to go. Despite her being up early we still did not get away
until almost 9. We said goodbye to the staff and started the teeth
rattling trip back to Maun. The Khawi Guesthouse was very clean, the
staff was excellent, but still overpriced. It is all about location.
Dash is a great guide but not a very good resort manager.
We
drove through the village Khwai to the Moremi north gate. The have no
electricity and no water but they do have a brand new fiber-optic
cable.
From
the north gate we took the straight line, 30 km, to the south gate.
Sounds easy but it ain't. At the south gate we turned away from the
gate and went into the southern part to see what we could see. All
the same stuff except since it is more open you saw them better.
Quite a few families of elephants and all those other things. We
spent hours riding around and never saw in total the number of
vehicles we saw last night chasing the dogs. We did come to a road
block of three vehicles. The lead had been sitting there for over
thirty minutes as a family of elephants was blocking the road. I
looked it over and decided that we would be there all day as it was
high noon, there was plenty of shade and food under some very large
trees and the elephants were not going to move on their own. So, I
went around all the vehicles and gently approached. A elephant would
face me, shake his head left and right and raise his trunk. This
means “hi dude, you are getting to close” and I would stop. It is
a start and stop operation. Took about five minutes but the elephants
parted and we went on. The trick is not to rush them. I did not get a
video of this encounter, but I did of the next and when I can I will
upload.
We
checked out at the south gate and headed south on the 2 hour bone
shaking, car rattling ride. When we pulled into the Sedia Hotel,
Vicki said she was suffering from “shaken baby syndrome” . I was
searching for my teeth on the floor. At the front desk they said
“Welcome back Mr. Wilson”. It it is always nice to be recognized.
Dinner was back at the Pizza and Curry shop.
the very rare princess bird
getting the head shake
we didn't
the veterinary check point
SEPT 23
The
last several days we have been working our way out of Botswana
staying at a range of lodges from marginal to OK. In Gweta to see the
Makgadikgadi pans game reserve, Elephant Sands to watch the elephants
come right up and drink water, and Kasane to visit the Chobe National
Park.The wind blew so hard at times that the sky was red with dust
making for great sunsets and red moons.
When I
worked I wore a watch because the law said I had too. When I came
home I took the watch and my wedding ring off. When I retired I threw
the watch away and wore my wedding ring all the time. Last year, when
I visited Jet and Quaid. I told Ed I used to have a watch just like
his. I left Big Red in their care and I flew home to be with my
mother. When I returned they presented me with a watch like Ed's. I
started wearing that watch 24/7 until the bear ran out in front of
Big Red and I took a tumble over the top of the handle bars. I can
tell you a Timex does not “take a lickin' and keep on tickin” any
more. I missed having a watch and when I got home I had Amazon
deliver one to my front door. Three days ago, the watch physically
broke, but kept on tickin', it just was not on my arm. I was having
withdrawal symptoms, so today I found a new watch for $2.50. I am
now at peace again.
Makgadikgadi pans game reserve. Nhwetwe and sua pans
Nhwetwe pan. the largest salt pan in the world
We hired a local escort, “not a guide”, to help us make our way through the hour and a half maze of roads. All the same road, just different branches. The powder gray dust was so thick at times our own dust engulfed the car and we had to wait for it to pass.
Baobab trees store up to 26,000 gallons of water to endure the dry seasons and have been carbon dated to 1275 years old.
Baobab trees store up to 26,000 gallons of water to endure the dry seasons and have been carbon dated to 1275 years old.
The roots head off in the direction of a water hole.
overlander vehicle that takes tourist around Africa
to protect against hoof and mouth from KFC
sau pan
Elephant
Sands is built around a waterhole that they fill form a well twelve
kilometers away and haul in. Now setting up close and personal is
great, however, when there a dozen that are tussling and trumpeting
all night not so much.
From Maun
to Kasane we saw not goats, donkeys or cows on or by the highway. We
did see elephant, zebra, bac, giraffe, etc.
when we got close to the Zambezi river we came across fields that the rows were longer than you could see with the binoculars.
We stopped here for gas and lunch as this is a chain restaurant with a open kitchen so you can see what they are doing. It's is a chicken restaurant. At 12 o'clock we order chicken. “45 minutes”. You don't even ask except, “what can I get quicker”, “chicken sandwich”, “how long”, “seven minutes”,“give me two of those”.
dead people need shade too!
Finally we were able to get Son of Bucket of Bolts, SOB for short, a very good bath.
This is
the face of Botswana
Chobe National Park
So the sun has set on Botswana for us.
